| Location |
Name |
Rating |
Date |
Comments |
Features |
Pictures |
Grade |
| The Slips, Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Italian Arette |
5.6 |
7/98 |
First time was fun, with one or two points where I had
a bit of a question about where to go next. The second time
I climbed it, I lead it (first lead), though someone had already
placed most of the quickdraws on the bolts. |
bolted, arette |
| The Slips, Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Roll the Bones |
5.6 |
7/98 |
A fun face climb on quartzite. Climbed it twice
for my first outdoor climbs. 95% easy, there was one
location where I kept not seeing the next hold.
|
bolted, face |
| The Slips, Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Entre nous |
5.8 |
7/98 |
The climb to the right of the Italian Arette, another
face climb with a fun blank-ish stretch. Took a few falls
on this one, but climbed it.
|
bolted, face |
| Pete's Rock, Salt Lake City, UT |
Route #2 |
?? |
7/98 |
A pretty vertical face with gargantuan holds, one
barely-overhung section. It was fairly easy. |
top-roping is easy, not bolted |
| City of Rocks, ID |
Scream Cheese |
5.9 * |
7/98 |
Scary, but fun. :-) Had a few moves that were a bit
freaky. Not a good warm-up rock, but enjoyable. |
bolted, face |
| City of Rocks, ID |
Batwings |
5.8+ ** |
7/98 |
Another fun climb. I don't remember it very well - adrenaline.
Leading it looks scary because of a long (40') runout at the end. |
|
| City of Rocks, ID |
Good Times |
5.7 * |
7/98 |
A fairly easy crack climb. The face between Good Times and
Pure Pleasure is a _lot_ of fun. This is a great route to play
around and feel how much friction you can get on the granite
at city of rocks. 8/23/1998 - climbed it again, fun variant is
to run as quickly as possible up it on TR. |
trad, crack, great friction |
| City of Rocks, ID |
Pure Pleasure |
5.7 * |
7/98 |
Almost identical to Good Times, above |
trad |
| City of Rocks, ID |
New York is Not the City |
5.10a **/*** |
7/98 |
The guidebook lists it as a 5.10a, but it's really an 8 or a 9.
A very enjoyable climb. Next time I'll have to go straight
up the face at the end instead of using the crack. |
bolted, face, crack |
| City of Rocks, ID |
Unnamed/unknown |
5.7-5.9 **(?) |
7/98 |
A long (17 bolts, one pitch, two ropes to get down) route
next to NY is not the City. A very enjoyable, if tiring,
climb. Many good holds, though the beginning is rough for
a short person. Took one wrong route on it and fell, but
once I realized the right route, it wasn't bad. A good
route to practice leading on because of the high bolt density.
8/23/98 - climbed it again, much fun.
|
bolted, face |
| Big Cottonwood Canyon - Narcolepsy Area, UT |
Dreamscape |
5.9+ * |
7/98 |
It didn't feel like a 9+, so I think I went around some of the
harder sections on this wall. That aside, it was a lot of fun.
A couple of touchy moves on it. (Update: Yeah, I went left of the 5.9+ move)
|
bolted,face |
| Big Cottonwood Canyon - Narcolepsy Area, UT |
Narcolepsy |
5.8 R ** |
7/98 |
Goes from a
face to an arette with fun climbing on the entire thing. One sketchy
move that (I think) was poorly protected if I hadn't been topping.
8/98 variant: Stick with the arette the entire way up, then head left
onto the face at the end when the arette gets easy. Makes for a more
uniform and enjoyable climb. (Curtis' suggestion)
|
bolted,face,arette |
| Lisa Falls, Little Cottonwood, UT |
Lisa Falls Left |
5.8 R 1/2* |
8/4/1998 |
Not a 5.8; an enjoyable, but easy, face friction climb in
a tiny (few inches) corner running up the wall. The rock is
something amazing, though - more in the description of
Swept Left.
|
bolted (poorly), face, friction |
| Lisa Falls, Little Cottonwood, UT |
Sweet Spot |
5.8+ R * |
8/4/1998 |
Starts the same as Lisa Falls Left, but takes a more fun run
up a different crack. Also a relatively short route. More
deserving of its 5.8-ness, but still not all that bad.
|
bolted (poorly), face, friction |
| Lisa Falls, Little Cottonwood, UT |
Sweep Left |
5.10b *** |
8/4/1998 |
Wow! The first move on this one from the little ledge is intense
- it really reaffirmed the need to fully commit on some of the
climbs. It's a juicy face friction with the slickest rock I've felt.
Very, very cool.
|
bolted, face, friction, whee! |
| Lisa Falls, Little Cottonwood, UT |
Safety Blitz |
5.7 |
8/4/1998 |
One 5.7 move on a neat little roof, the rest was atrociously
boring 5.5. We did find a #2 camalot in a crack, though, so it wasn't
all worthless. :-)
|
trad |
| Lisa Falls, Little Cottonwood, UT |
Hard Knocks |
5.9+ * |
8/4/1998 |
A friction face climb from above the first set of anchors, this
had two fun moves on the 5.9 part, but getting there was 5.4 yawners.
Still need to do the "end run", "flee flicker", and "fleeting glimpse"
climbs.
|
bolted,face,friction |
| Crescent Crack, Little Cottonwood, UT |
Short Corner |
5.6 |
8/1998 |
A little corner by crescent. Not much to recommend it; easy.
|
trad |
| Crescent Crack, Little Cottonwood, UT |
Water Slide |
5.9+ (*?) |
8/1998 |
A hard face friction route; it took me numerous attempts and much
rubber shedding from my shoes to manage this one. The question mark
on the rating is because it was a bit hard for me; I'd have probably
enjoyed it more if I'd been more up to it.
|
face,friction,bolted |
| Crescent Crack, Little Cottonwood, UT |
Crescent Crack |
5.7** |
8/1998 |
A fun crack, though the "crack" part is overrated - it's got a lot of
face features which can be used as well. The end part of it is a fun little
chimney. 7 minutes up and down. :-)
|
|
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Perhaps |
5.7 *, ** for pitch 2 |
8/1998 |
Traditionally a two-pitch crack/face combo (trad), we followed it up
to a third pitch which was pretty fun. A very nice undercling in the
excellent second pitch. Just beware the traverse at the end of the
first pitch, and it's great. There's a hairy offwidth at the
beginning of what would be the fourth pitch that we didn't cope with.
Beware the bats. :-)
|
trad,crack,undercling |
|
| Mount Olympus, Salt Lake City, UT |
The West Slabs |
5.5/5.4 * |
8/1998 |
Would have been more fun without 6 hours of bushwhacking, but that
definitely added to the experience in some way. :) The slabs
themselves were fun, kind of like hiking up a very, very steep piece
of rock. Pro about every 50 feet or so, and simulclimb for more
entertainment. Has a nice length (300M or so).
|
trad |
|
| City of Rocks, ID |
Wheat Thin |
5.7 */** |
8/22/1998 |
Also fun. :) A thin flake/crack which goes up the face of the rock.
Trad protection, and on the hard side of 5.7, though I suspect that
may be because I used the face more than the crack itself.
|
trad,flake |
| City of Rocks, ID |
Pocket Rocket |
5.9 ** |
8/22/1998 |
Ooh, this one was fun. A trad crack climb which starts out with a
definite series of 5.9 moves in little pockets on the face. Flattens
out a bit into a 7 or 8 fist/foot crack which is very enjoyable. I
headed right after the crack; the book suggests going left. Either
way, the top part is fairly boring.
|
trad, crack |
| City of Rocks, ID |
Norma's Book |
5.6 * |
8/22/1998 |
Odd chimney next to Batwings. Lots of different stuff to do in the
crack. Funky. Very funky.
|
trad, chimney |
| City of Rocks, ID |
Unnamed two-pitch 5.7, east face, Flaming Rock |
5.7 * |
8/23/1998 |
The first pitch has some weird stuff on it, but the second pitch is
a very straightforward, easy face, which I lead. Quite a bit of fun.
Would like to lead this one again one of these days. The view from the top
is highly groovy (and peaks over to Tribal Boundaries).
|
bolted,face |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Tarzan |
5.7 A0, plus alternate 5.7 crack |
8/29?/1998 |
Annoying start, it's either a 5.10 face friction, a 5.7 A0 pulling on the
bolt, or an alternate crack that's supposed to be 5.7 but is extremely
hairy, especially on lead.
|
bolted + trad, crack + face |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Tingey's Terror |
5.7 * |
8/23/1998, 9/5/1998 |
An enjoyable multipitch 5.7. Most of it is fairly easy; I lead the
second pitch (bolted).
|
bolted,trad,face,crack |
| Parleys Canyon, UT |
Motley Cruise |
5.9 |
9/10/1998 |
Odd rock made this route a bit interesting. I may have cheated through
the harder 9 section by grabbing the arette. Don't think I'd like to
lead this one for a while.
|
bolted,face |
| Parleys Canyon, UT |
Something, far left |
5.8 |
9/10/1998 |
Cleaned this, it was getting dark and I was in a rush, so it wasn't
as fun as it could have been. A few bolts and a few pitons mark
the route and provide protection.
|
bolted,face |
| San Rafel Swell, UT |
Private Pizza |
5.9 ** |
9/12/1998 |
A really nice hand crack in the swell, on the east side of the road a
bit down from the campsite. There are two cracks (one in a face, one
in a dihedral) which make it emminently climbable. Nice pro -
smaller friends. Gets much harder if you only use a single crack
(I didn't climb it that way).
|
Hand crack, trad |
| San Rafel Swell, UT |
Scenic Byways, Pitch I |
5.9 **/*** |
9/12/1998 |
The book describes it as "the best hand crack in the swell"
but it wasn't as hand-cracky as Pizza. It was, however, a delightful
climb with a nice gentle lieback section for the crux. Very very fun.
|
hand crack, trad |
| Lisa Falls, Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
A 5.7+ to the right of the falls |
5.7+ |
9/17/1998 |
3 bolts to the anchors, it's not all that exciting. It has a neat
cruxy section if you're not warmed up and trusting your feet. :-)
I lead it, but took a fall at the beginning and slid down a bit.
Easy lead, though, because it's so slabby.
|
bolted,slab |
| Lisa Falls, Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
A 5.8+ to the right of the 5.7+ |
5.8+ * |
9/17/1998 |
3 bolts to the anchors, it's not all that exciting... also has some
fun cruxy parts, and is ameniable to many variations to get up.
Lead it, also took a bit of a slide. One very fun mantling variation.
|
bolted,slab |
| Lower Breadloaves/Provo Wall, City of Rocks, ID |
Finer Niner |
5.9 * |
09/19/1998 |
A few bolts protect a crux friction face. It was an okay warmup.
Andrew lead this one.
|
face,bolted |
| Lower Breadloaves/Provo Wall, City of Rocks, ID |
White Flake |
5.8 *** |
09/19/1998 |
This was a blast. The book suggests top-roping it because of crumbly rock,
and I have to agree. The climb itself was a ton of fun, with a great move
over a chockstone, and a funky column of rock you can wrap your hands
around. Whee!
|
top-rope, crack |
| Owl Rock, City of Rocks, ID |
? Direct |
5.8 ** |
09/19/1998 |
I may just be happy about this one because I lead it, but it was a pretty
fun climb with a few bulges to climb over (the crux). Well protected
in the places you wanted pro.
|
bolted, face |
| Owl Rock, City of Rocks, ID |
A "9d" to the right of Direct. |
5.9d (wtf?) |
09/19/1998 |
A tough climb, the first bolt is too high and difficult to achieve.
We're not exactly sure what the 9d rating meant; we've had some discussion
trying to figure out if it's dangerous (which the first bolt was), death,
a really hard 9, or a mis-labeled 10d. I followed on this one and popped off
once at the first bolt, but the rest of it was pretty easy.
|
|
| Owl Rock, City of Rocks, ID |
Night Vision |
5.9 */** |
09/19/1998 |
An enjoyable crack/face combo. Not many jams in the crack, but it provided
some good semi-liebacking opportunity. Shares anchors with the previous two
climbs.
|
trad, crack, face |
| Parkinglot Rock, City of Rocks, ID |
Delay of Game * |
5.8 |
09/19/1998 |
Finally got to climb this thing, after getting sick of waiting in line on two
previous visits. A fun bolted face route, it was quite long.
|
bolted, face |
| Parkinglot Rock, City of Rocks, ID |
Batwings |
5.8+ ** |
09/19/1998 |
This crack+traverse was a lot more fun this time; I actually
remember climbing it on Saturday. It was quite fun, though the high
wind and impending darkness made it colder than hell, and I about
froze my butt off trying to clean one stopper. The runout at the end is fairly long, but I think I could lead this one next time.
|
One bolt, trad, crack, bit o' face |
| Stripe Rock, City of Rocks, ID |
Cruel Shoes |
5.7 */** |
09/20/1998 |
Three pitches with a pica nesting in a big jug on the first (cute little guy).
I lead the second pitch, Steve lead I and III. It was a fairly typical city
face route, with lots and lots of bolts. Double rope rap down on the other
side of the rock; bring approach shoes on the climb if you do it. :-)
|
bolted, face |
| Stripe Rock, City of Rocks, ID |
Poly-Stick-Em (pitch 1) |
5.10c ** |
09/20/1998 |
Eep! This was hard. The beginning starts out with a groovy lieback
on a flake, though the second bolt is oddly placed. Takes a big hex
and a small cam for intermediate pro before reaching the real crux,
a slab leading up to the anchors. A few small nubbins on the slab
provide just enough grip to get up to the ledge, but it's hairy.
Very fun. Toproped.
|
slab, bolted/trad, face |
| The Slips, Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Thieving Magpie |
5.7 * |
9/24/1998 |
Lead it for club night, it was easy and reasonably fun. Climbed
it again, trying to do completely no-hands (on TR), but had to cheat
in a few spaces. :-) I'm getting sick of the slips.
|
bolted, face |
| The Slips, Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Roll the Bones |
5.6 |
9/24/1998 |
Cleaned it for club night. Gets entertaining when you're trying
to speed climb it and it's getting dark. It was also fun to climb
this one again since it was also the first thing I'd climbed
outdoors.
|
bolted, face |
| Gate Buttress, LCC, Utah |
Schoolroom |
5.6 ** |
09/27/1998 |
An easy, all-gear climb; it was fun practice for placing gear, with
some surprisingly fun climbing in it. I'm not sure it gets the dave
three-star rating (which is what the book ranks it), but it was enjoyable.
Five pitches, easy leading, yum.
|
| Upper S-Curves, LCC, Utah |
Clean Underwear |
5.8+/5.9 ** |
10/13/1998 |
An overhung, super-juggy sport route; quite enjoyable, though I had a
bear of a time with one liebacky/body tension part. Toproped it.
|
bolted |
| Red Rocks, NV |
Frogland |
5.8 ** |
10/17/1998 |
Six or seven pitches of fun. The sandstone at Red Rocks is simply
incredible; it's much harder than I expected (thank goodness), and has
little ridgy features reminiscent of the City of Rocks' granite. This
climb was great - it took about 8 hours car to car (30 mins approach,
1 hour descent). This descent is supposed to be moderate by Red Rocks
standards. The pitch had two nervous spots, a finger traverse, and a
sorta thin face with a bolt too high. If you're following it with a
backpack, beware of the chockstone - I got wedged with my pack. :)
(I lead the easier pitches, Steve lead the harder pitches).
|
trad, crack, face |
|
III |
| Red Rocks, NV |
Lotta Balls |
5.8 ** |
10/18/1998 |
Three pitches plus some class 4, this was also a great climb. The
"balls" are actually little marble-sized varnished spots
which protrude from the face. They look like they'll snap off, but
they hold you. Pitch 2 was the balls part, and was fun. Pitches 1
and 3 were quite easy.
|
mostly trad, crack, face |
|
II |
| Red Rocks, NV |
Cat In The Hat |
5.6 ** |
2/?/1999 |
We missed the last pitch because of poor weather, but the climb was
really enjoyable. All sorts of climbing in the first four pitches,
with great runout possibilities if your hands happened to be freezing.
Climbed something unnamed in St. George the next day. Basalt. Cool
stuff.
|
mostly trad, crack, face |
|
II |
| Pete's Rock, Salt Lake City, UT |
Various routes |
Various ratings |
02/28/1999 |
Climbed #3 (easy), #4 (easy), and then invented a new one on an
overhang off to the left of #3 (not easy). Typical pete's rock climbs
- juggy, bad rock, etc. Nice start to the season.
|
toprope |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Crescent Crack |
5.7 |
3/6/1999 |
I hadn't climbed the rest of the pitches of Crescent before. The
offwidth pitch really kicked by butt, and made me realize how much I
need to practice those evail beasties. Yowza, but what fun!
|
trad |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Short Corner |
5.6 |
3/6/1999 |
Nice way to remember how to lead when you've been sitting on your butt
all winter.
|
trad/crack |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Waterslide |
5.9+ |
3/6/1999 |
Tons of fun. Didn't cheat this time, but it still took many tries on the crux move. I like this route quite a bit.
|
one bolt, tree at top, slab |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Schoolroom Direct |
5.7 |
3/14/1999 |
We did the direct start to Schoolroom (me, alastair, Paul Houdack from
Yale, and his daughter), which was really a bit of fun. It has one
5.7y slab move on it that's kind of runout and gets the brain
tingling, and was fun overall. I lead the pitches of the climb I
hadn't done last year, and enjoyed it quite a bit.
|
trad, all sorts of stuff |
|
II |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Pruneface |
5.9 |
04/??/1999 |
Backed off of lead - the first moves are freeeeaky. :)
Once you get them wired, they're not bad at all, though.
|
slab, bolted |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Straight On For You |
5.8+ |
04/??/1999 |
Same start as Pruneface. Really, really nice friction climbing -
keeps you awake at all times. In honesty, harder than Pruneface.
The ratings should be swapped.
|
slab, bolted |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Straight On For You |
5.8+ |
04/??/1999 |
Same start as Pruneface. Really, really nice friction climbing -
keeps you awake at all times. In honesty, harder than Pruneface.
The ratings should be swapped.
|
slab, bolted |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Crack to the left of Pruneface? |
5.? |
04/??/1999 |
The top was weird where it crossed over to
pruneface. The lower crack was easy.
|
trad, crack |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Callitwhatyouplease |
5.8? |
04/??/1999 |
A really fun crux move on this one. Followed.
|
trad, crack |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Crack In The Woods |
5.9 |
04/??/1999 |
I lead this one, but had no style. Fun crack.
|
trad, crack |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Hand Jive |
5.8 |
04/??/1999 |
Steve Clawson lead this pitch, thank goodness. Has a really
awkward traverse, but it was pretty fun overall.
|
trad, crack |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Parapalegic Ward |
5.9 |
04/??/1999 |
A terribly fun flaring crack - really, an offwidth with a handish
crack at the back. It was great - but wear lots of tape.
TR'd this one.
|
trad, crack |
|
I |
| San Rafel Swell, UT |
Curtis/Steve 5.9 by Pizza |
5.9 |
05/16/1999 |
This was a good little crack about 30m right of
Private Pizza. Had some good jams, and a weird
little ending that would just suck on lead.
|
trad, crack |
|
I |
| San Rafel Swell, UT |
Unknown 5.10 by Pizza |
5.10 |
05/16/1999 |
About 20m right of Private Pizza. It's in three
sections - a nice bottom, a nice top, and a lieback
section in the center that narrows and spits you out
into knuckle jams. Hardest crack I've climbed
so far - yowza. Fun, in a sick way, but I wouldn't
want to lead it yet. :)
|
trad, crack |
|
I |
| San Rafel Swell, UT |
Private Pizza |
5.9 |
05/16/1999 |
Pizza was much, much better this time. I really enjoyed it.
|
trad, crack |
|
I |
| Parleys Canyon, UT |
The 120' 5.8 in the middle |
5.8 |
05/19/1999 |
Fun lead. Nice and long, nothing too hard.
Definitely can *not* top-rope this one, though.
|
bolted,face |
|
I |
| Parleys Canyon, UT |
A 5.8 or 5.7 off to the left |
5.8? |
05/19/1999 |
The one with the manky pins to clip. Not
a fun lead, since the pins suck, and I stayed
left in the crack for the most part. Fun
on TR when you avoid the crack and friction on the
face, though.
|
bolted,face |
|
I |
| Parking Lot Rock, City of Rocks, ID |
Funky Bolt
| 5.9+ |
05/22/1999 |
That bolt is.. funky. :) Curtis lead. Takes a selection of smaller
cams, two quickdraws, bring a long sling for the anchor
at the top - it's a huge slung horn.
|
bolted/trad, crack |
|
I |
| Elephant Rock, City of Rocks, ID |
Just Say No
| 5.9 ** |
05/22/1999 |
Ooooh, yum. This was a fun one - I lead. It's fairly straightforward
City climbing, easy for 5.9. The end is run-out, but so easy it
doesn't matter. Bring a hex (#7 or so) for the hole by the chimney.
The holds around the left are juicy once the face seems to run out of
them.
|
slab, bolted, face |
|
I |
| Decadent Wall, City of Rocks, ID |
Nipples & Clits
| 5.10a |
05/22/1999 |
I kind of lead this one, but I went off-route a bit
at the top to where I felt more comfortable. A
fun climb - kind of crimpy, fairly pumpy, leaves
your fingers hurting. It was a pretty scary lead -
had to take a bunch. Climbed it again on TR, and
it was much more fun. We tried the 11a next to it,
but I got through the 10ish section and bounced off
of the 11a moves. :)
|
trad, face |
|
I |
| Lost Arrow Spire, City of Rocks, ID |
Classic Route
| 5.7 ** |
05/23/1999 |
This is definitely 5.7, but it's hard 7 - it required some actual
thought about where you were going to move, etc.. I lead the first
pitch, Steve Clawson lead the second. Pitch 1 wants a range of
smaller cams up to #1 camalots, and then takes up through #3 for
setting up the belay. Pitch 2 takes a stopper, a few cams up through
#2, and then runs out the end. Hanging rappel. Fun climb. Has about
6 fixed pins on the first pitch.
|
slab, trad, face |
|
I |
| Mushroom Rock, City of Rocks, ID |
North face slabs - leftmost climb
| 5.8? |
05/23/1999 |
There are two bolted climbs on the north face of mushroom
rock. This is the one on the left. It felt ~5.8ish
(at least, that was our consensus). Facey, slabby, had
three bolts.
|
slab, bolted, face |
|
I |
| Mushroom Rock, City of Rocks, ID |
North face slabs - rightmost climb
| 5.9? |
05/23/1999 |
The rightmost climb on the same slabs, was a bit harder than the left
one, but was also better protected. I lead this one - it was pretty
fun. :)
|
slab, bolted, face |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Pitch I of pentapitch
| 5.6ish |
05/25/1999 |
The climb is 5.8, but the first pitch is cake. Unfortunately,
a thunderstorm crept up as Alastair got to the top of the pitch.
sigh. :)
|
|
|
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Beckey's Wall
| 5.7 |
06/08/1999 |
With Alastair and Chad; fun climb. I'm not
ravingly insane for it, but there was a 5.9
friction climb up there that looks *fun*. Climbed
next to it (skipping the crack) on the 2nd pitch
of beckey's. Must do.
|
crack |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Perhaps
| 5.7 |
06/09/1999 |
Followed pitch 1 setting up a TR for the WMC.
Not bad; pitch 2 is better.
|
crack |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
The Green Adjective
| 5.9 |
06/09/1999 |
TR'd it. Yummyfun! I really liked this one.
|
crack |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Pentapitch
| 5.8 |
06/12/1999 |
Lead pitches 1 & 3 (of 3 pitches). Very yummy. Third pitch is
definitely the crux. Nice way to spend a day on the rock.
|
crack, trad (many nuts) |
|
II |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Sasquatch
| 5.9+ |
06/12/1999 |
I think I'm glad I followed this one (Alastair led).
Very enjoyable. The roofy-thing is cake; the crux
is afterwords when the crack thins out.
|
crack, trad |
|
I |
| Dead Snag Area, Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
East Dihedrals |
5.6 |
06/13/1999 |
An enjoyable trad climb. Lead the second pitch, chad lead
the first. Good pro all the way up. Nice way to spend
an afternoon.
|
crack, trad |
|
I |
| Dead Snag Area, Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Steort's Ridge |
5.6 |
06/13/1999 |
Yum. Freaky last pitch (did it in 3 on Alastair's 45m rope).
Being 20 feet above a TCU isn't really all that fun, even on
a 5.6. :) Nice exposure. Good climb.
|
crack, trad |
|
I |
| The Waterfront, Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Chickenhead Holiday |
5.6 |
06/17/1999 |
Not too bad, not too great. Fun start in a crack. Has the
distinction of being the first recorded climb in LCC, which is pretty
cool (1961, Ted Wilson). Meandery second pitch; we may have done it
slightly wrong. Fun nonetheless. Found mucho booty. *grin*
(Steve lead pitch 1, I lead pitch 2).
|
crack, trad |
|
I |
| The Waterfront, Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Comfort Zone |
5.9- |
06/17/1999 |
Mmmm. My kind of climb; pretty well bolted (6 bolts; the book is
wrong) with some nice touchy slab moves to add spice to it. We did
two variations; when I lead it, I went up left of the last bolt, which
proved to be a stupid way to get a runout, and then the next time on
TR, went right just below it and up the crack, which worked far
better. Yum yum yum! (onsight).
|
sport, slab |
|
I |
| Industrial Wall, Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Maid In America |
5.10b ** |
06/19/1999 |
Yummy. Slabby thing with some evil moves. Had to take twice
when leading it (yeah, I'm a looser. :-), but repeated it on
TR and did it without a problem. Need to go back and
redpoint it one of these days. Well bolted, in a beautiful
(and stream-cooled) location. The water was too high
to get to many other climbs here.
|
sport, slab |
|
I |
| Industrial Wall, Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Assembly Line |
5.7 |
06/19/1999 |
Like Maid in America, but easier (bigger jugs). Also
pretty fun.
|
sport, slab |
|
I |
| Pentapitch Area, Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Endless Torment (pitch I) |
5.9+ |
06/19/1999 |
TR'd it with Steve and Curtis. Not bad. Would be evil to lead;
the pro was bad. It's a crack with friction for the feet.
|
trad, crack |
|
I |
| The Egg, Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Variety Delight |
5.7 |
06/20/1999 |
Climbed this with Chad. He lead the first pitch, which was really
a nice little warmup climb. 5.7 all the way up, though it couldn't
decide if it was a face climb or a crack climb, which made it
interesting. The second pitch, however, was an offwidth. Eww.
The book calls it a 7, which probably just means that I suck
at offwidths, because it was *hard*. (1962 offwidth).
|
trad, crack |
|
I |
| The Egg, Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Leggo My Eggo |
5.10a |
06/20/1999 |
Fell between the first two bolts leading, so I cheated to clip the
second bolt. Wasn't too awful on this mini-toprope. :-) I
really enjoyed it; hard stuff at the start, with 5.6-5.8 friction
the rest of the way up. Oh my god, did my feet hurt afterwords. :)
Another I need to go back and redpoint.
|
bolted, slab |
|
I |
| The Egg, Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Groovy |
5.8+ |
06/20/1999 |
Chad lead this one. A lot of liebacking, and hanging off of
arms with some funky stem rests possible. A very cool
climb, especially in terms of the funky positions you have
to get in to get some rests. Nice lead on Chad's part.
Someone added a bolt on this one after the guidebook
was published, thank god.
|
trad, crack/jugs/weird |
|
I |
| Perhaps Area, Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Cranial Prophylactic |
5.8 |
06/22/1999 |
In theory, I lead this, but I got amazingly freaked while fumbling for a cam.
Bogglemethat. In any event, it was a spectacular showing of dave sloughing
himself up a climb while twitching. *laugh*. Not a bad climb, not too great.
|
trad, crack |
|
I |
| Perhaps Area, Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Smittys Wet Dream |
5.9 |
06/22/1999 |
TR'd it after Chad went up. This was enjoyable. Very sequency, kind
of funky, very fun.
|
trad, crack/jugs/weird |
|
I |
| Perhaps Area, Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Kermit's Wad |
5.10a *** |
06/22/1999 |
Ahh, more of these 10 friction climbs. This was really fun! I did
take a fall while leading it, but it's a nice climb on which to do so.
Must do this one again. Sport, but bring a few nuts for the bottom
before stepping out on to the face. Starts out easy (5.6-7) until the
first bolt, and then gets progressively harder until the crux at the
third bolt.
|
bolted, slab |
|
I |
The Slips, Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Italian Arette |
5.6 |
06/23/1999 |
Lead it again with Steve and Eleanor. |
bolted, arette |
| The Slips, Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Entre nous |
5.8+ |
06/23/1999 |
Lead it again with Steve and Eleanor |
bolted, face |
| The Slips, Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Thieving Magpie |
5.7 |
06/23/1999 |
Fun variation: Mantle the block in the middle of the climb without
using any handholds above it until you get a foot up on to it. Yowza!
Entertaining. :)
|
bolted, face |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Crack In The Woods |
5.9 |
06/27/1999 |
Followed it this time. It felt much easier. :) Enjoyed it. Alastair lead.
|
trad, crack |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Hand Jive |
5.8 ** |
06/27/1999 |
Followed again. Quite enjoyable. Nice jams.
|
trad, crack |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Parapalegic Ward |
5.9 ** |
06/27/1999 |
Just as yummy as the last time! But I forgot the tape. TR'd.
|
trad, crack |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Mexican Crack |
5.10a *** |
06/27/1999 |
It was dark when I got to the end of it, and I did a poor
job of cleaning the pro (was leaning on the wrong hand),
but this was a *really* *really* fun route. Must go back
and lead it. Wow!
|
trad, crack |
|
I |
| Spud Rock, City of Rocks, ID |
Sudden Pleasure |
5.11a |
07/09/1999 |
I didn't really climb this. I hangdogged up it on lead, and then
TR'd it afterwords, but had to take all through the crux
section. This would be a lot of fun once I'm better, though. :)
|
sport |
|
I |
| Parking Lot Rock, City of Rocks, ID |
Parking Lot Seven |
5.7 |
07/10/1999 |
A nice little trad lead. I overprotected it and got tons of rope
drag, but still fun. (Use long runners). A kind of funky start.
|
trad, city crack |
|
I |
| Bath Rock, City of Rocks, ID |
Easy Way Up |
5.4R |
07/10/1999 |
A fun little free solo. I was looking for the Cowboy Routes, but missed. :)
Went up and down a few variations of this.
|
|
|
I |
| Bath Rock, City of Rocks, ID |
Bathtub Bowl Route |
5.6-? |
07/10/1999 |
Another free solo, the middle bathtub bowl crack. Nice, straightforward
jugfest of a crack.
|
|
|
I |
| Elephant Rock, City of Rocks, ID |
The Pygmies Got Stoned |
5.10a |
07/10/1999 |
Followed after Levi lead this one. Nice thin face
sport climb.
|
sport |
|
I |
| City of Rocks, ID |
Bathtub Bowl Route |
5.7? |
07/11/1999 |
The second from the right bathtub bowl route. Not as
straightforward, but was fun to protecte with only small cams
and a set of stoppers. (Bring larger cams if you want to do it. really. :-)
|
trad |
|
I |
| City of Rocks, ID |
Colossus |
5.10c |
07/11/1999 |
Had to take, but a fun lead. The crux move is pretty
funky. Would like to go back and redpoint.
|
sport |
|
I |
| City of Rocks, ID |
Wheat Thin |
5.7 |
07/11/1999 |
See previous descriptions. Followed Steve up it. Nice way to
end a City trip.
|
trad |
|
I |
| Upper S-Curves, LCC, Utah |
Geronimo |
5.8 ** |
07/18/1999 |
Onsight lead, nice little juggy quartzite sport climb. The all-Teva toprope ascent was really a kick. Pictures coming soon.
|
sport |
|
I |
| Upper S-Curves, LCC, Utah |
Clean Underwear |
5.8+/5.9 ** |
07/18/1999 |
Previously toproped (1998), lead it (redpoint). Nice climb when you don't
go out of your way to make it difficult.
|
sport |
|
I |
| Upper S-Curves, LCC, Utah |
The 10 to the left of clean underwear |
5.10a |
07/18/1999 |
Followed Chad on it. Misread the crux, but got it after working it a bit. Nice pumpy little climb.
|
sport |
|
I |
| Castleton Tower, Moab, UT |
Kor-Ingalls Route |
5.9 |
07/21/1999 |
See the Trip Report for more details.
Serious fun! Pictures are in there too.
|
trad, tower |
|
III |
| Lover's Leap, CA |
East Wall |
5.6 |
07/23/1999 |
Lead p1,2,3 with Marcus following. A great climb - the runout dike
traverse is great! As with the rest of the Leap climbs, the ability
of these cracks to slurp up stoppers is simply astounding. Some
of the most fun pro I've ever placed.
|
trad |
|
II |
| Lover's Leap, CA |
Haystack Crack |
5.8 |
07/23/1999 |
Pull the yummy 4' roof. Fun! Lead p1,2,3 with Marcus.
|
trad |
|
II |
| Lover's Leap, CA |
Bear's Reach |
5.7 |
07/24/1999 |
Not a bad little climb. The hollow flakes made me
constantly nervous, but the climbing was of a grade to
ease paranoia. The second half is supposed to be
a bit reachy, but, er, that isn't a problem here. :)
|
trad |
|
II |
| Lover's Leap, CA |
The Line |
5.9 |
07/24/1999 |
Followed Levi up this one. Loads of fun, and a visually stunning
line running up the face. A few tough bits at the beginning.
|
trad |
|
II |
| American Fork, UT |
Vaporous Apparition |
5.9 |
07/30/1999 |
Hopped on this climb by mistake, when looking for the 5.7
around the corner for warming up and getting used to the rock.
Oops. A good way to get very pumped out. Fell at crux.
|
sport |
|
I |
| American Fork, UT |
Rockapella |
5.7 |
07/30/1999 |
This was the AF intro I was looking for. Nice, fun. (followed Chad).
|
sport |
|
I |
| American Fork, UT |
Stoic Calculus |
5.8 |
07/30/1999 |
Described as a "5.8 climb for 5.10 leaders," this climb really isn't
that bad, though it's much more runout than most sport climbs. A
very, very enjoyable lead.
|
sport |
|
I |
| American Fork, UT |
Twist and Shout |
5.10a |
07/30/1999 |
Followed Chad. Pumpy and sustained, but nice and not too bad.
|
sport |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Plumb Line variation |
5.9 |
07/31/1999 |
This was our first attempt to climb the Thumb, but it started
drizzling, so we threw up a TR on Plumb Line. I completely misread
the crux, and ended up doing a 5.9 face variation.
Score: Thumb 1, Dave 0.
|
TR |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
Bloodsport |
5.7 |
07/31/1999 |
In a desperate attempt to get at least one more climb in on this
day, I followed Steve up this route at the bloodline area. The
ruckmans give it zero stars, and I understand why - the climb is
one big dirty traverse. If about five hundred more parties went
up it, the rock might improve to the point where it would be
fun, but the rope drag would still prove a strong incentive
to avoid this route.
|
trad |
|
I |
| Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT |
The Thumb, pitch 1, not quite |
5.7 |
08/01/1999 |
Day two: We approached the thumb, and scrambled up the approach
gully. To summarize, we climbed one pitch, and Chad began leading
what looked like the obvious second pitch. He then asked me
to follow it instead of one of the people from his party, and
tell him what I thought of it. After resorting to a little judicious
aid off of #2 metolius, it was pretty clear that we were off
route. We arrived back at the car at 5:00, after spending a day
hiking (long approach) and hanging out on a sharp rock. A glance at
the guidebook later revealed that we should have taken that left
in alberquerquie...
Score: Thumb 2, Dave 0.
|
TR |
|
I |
